Aranwa spa resort in Huayllabamba, Sacred Valley of the Incas (Svetlana Zubareva) |
My private lounge which, alas, nobody visited as they all had their own cozy nooks |
Ornate icon in the lounge |
However, the
super-luxurious trappings were marred by some very basic design flaws. A couple
of days before the ceremony, it rained so heavily part of the conference room
was flooded. Sebastian the heroic and indefatigable coordinator spent 45
minutes sweeping water back into the drains and managed to save Omashar’s sound
system from possible damage. The carpet smelt of wet dog for several days
afterwards.
Lushly landscaped grounds (Svetlana Zubareva) |
Other quirky details made our sojourn even more unforgettable: for
instance, somebody had forgotten to incline the shower floor in my bathroom so
that water could drain quickly. As a result I was forced to use the long bath
with its built-in jacuzzi (good fun, but I still prefer the natural ones around my home). And Solara twice reported that she found a worm in
her room. Although every room supposedly had wi-fi, the connection was so
feeble and unstable it cured me, at least temporarily, of my low opinion of
Streamyx.
Our master chefs at Aranwa |
Road to Urubamba, adobe house, the Andes |
A Quecha bambina |
The Urubamba Valley is mostly scenic, with endless acres of potato and corn fields, and colorfully dressed native Quechas going about their business. The houses are mostly made of adobe which lends them an entirely earthy aura. There are many local tribes that did not assimilate genetically with the Spaniards – their features echo the Nepalese and the Maya. You can tell from the luminous eyes of the children that these highland tribes are still very much connected to their souls.
Many of them remain farmers but some are from artisan
families with highly developed jewellery making skills. Peruvian food has
subtle flavors and is quite easy to adapt to – especially the variety of
excellent breads made from assorted grains. As we spent most of the 10-day
session comfortably embedded in our splendid resort, there wasn’t much
opportunity to play tourist – except for those who extended their stay and
continued exploring before or after the ceremony. I was content to wander
around the cobbled streets of Ollantaytambo and check out a few cafes. I did make an attempt at scaling Pinkuylluna, the nearest peak to my guesthouse - but after 20 minutes I decided to just stop and admire the view. The thin air (and my thinning hair) made climbing extremely strenuous - and I wished I had visited Peru 10 years earlier. Anyhow it was
delightful to keep bumping into others from the 11th Gate who were still
around. It felt like a neverending family reunion.
Ollantaytambo plaza at dawn |
Morning mist over Ollantaytambo |
Aguas Caliente is a tourist trap where the trainline stops and you walk or take a bus to Machu Picchu |
Machu Picchu is a major revenue earner for Peru and they
even set a daily limit on the number of tourists. It was a little disconcerting
to see the long lines of day-trippers waiting to go in, many gabbing away
loudly the whole time, totally insensitive to the awesome sight of the towering
mountains and the inscrutable gaze of the Apus (mountain spirits). Why would
anyone spend so much money visiting this spectacular site, only to photograph
each other with handphones and then brag about having been there?
Vertiginous terraces of Machu Picchu; the Urubamba River flows below |
First glimpse of the Inca ruins as you enter Machu Picchu |
Restoration is ongoing, just as at Angkor Wat, another UNESCO World Heritage site |
I couldn't take my eyes off the monumental peaks. The Apus are still around! |
It is simply
a jaw-dropping sight, despite the thousands of noisy tourists crawling around.
I managed to find a few quiet nooks where, at least for 15 minutes at a time, I
could imagine life in this fortress temple complex as it used to be, and
commune with the Apus. There were many discreet niches everywhere, ideal
meditation spots – which suggested that the beings who inhabited this place
were lofty minded and cognizant of both terrestrial and celestial forces.
Trapezoidal windows and inwardly inclined walls designed to withstand tremors |
My intuition informs me that there is
a great deal as yet undiscovered about the Incas – who they were and where they
originated. Near a cave glittering with tiny quartz crystals I spotted the
entrance of a hobbit-sized tunnel. Friends mentioned the possible existence of
crystal cities deep within these rugged peaks and I kept visualizing 20-foot
tall humanoids peering out the trapezoidal windows which normal-sized humans
would have to climb ladders to reach.
Ponchos and chullos are perfect for the Andean climate |
I greatly look forward to the day fresh discoveries are
announced that may reveal the deep secrets of the Andes: how these mountains
were formed and who built these monumental ruins that have survived serious earthquakes
and Conquistadors.
Machu Picchu, according to mainstream historians, was built in the 1400s by the great Incas, Pachacutec Inca Yupanqui and Tupac Inca Yupanqui. The cyclopean rock structures, I strongly suspect, date back much farther in time. It’s entirely possible that the 15th century Incas merely restored and extended the original structures, less than a century before the Spanish conquest.
Bronze statue of Pachacutec in Aguas Caliente |
Machu Picchu, according to mainstream historians, was built in the 1400s by the great Incas, Pachacutec Inca Yupanqui and Tupac Inca Yupanqui. The cyclopean rock structures, I strongly suspect, date back much farther in time. It’s entirely possible that the 15th century Incas merely restored and extended the original structures, less than a century before the Spanish conquest.
12-angled stone in Sacsayhuaman (Håkan Svensson) |
In Machu Picchu massive boulders weighing up to 50 tons fit neatly and asymmetrically together without the use of mortar to seal the joints, which are generally so precise you couldn’t slip in a human hair, much less a razor blade. I read that the Inca walls in Sacsayhuaman, outside Cusco, feature gigantic stones, some weighing over 125 tons. I seriously doubt any contemporary engineering methods exist that can come close to constructing such colossal structures, designed to blend with the terrain and withstand major earthquakes.
The entire Master
Cylinder went on an excursion to Moray, a mysterious archaeological site (described
by academics as an agricultural research station) located 11,500 feet above sea
level, about 40 minutes by bus from Huayllabamba. Several terraced depressions,
the largest nearly 100 feet deep, spread over hundreds of acres, present an
awesome spectacle.
Echoes of far-off memories in Moray (Thilo Vasanael Vierhuff) |
When we got there, it just so happened that we thought it
would be amusing to spread ourselves around the amphitheater-like terraced depression with
people on every level. Having been briefed about our non-ceremony at Moray,
nobody was to perform any mudras - but if we felt like it we could do a
bit of synchronized stretching.
As it turned out, our non-ceremony at Moray was supercharged – everybody seemed totally focused and energized as we performed our synchronized “stretching” exercises. It would have been a magnificent sight to record on video, but every one of us was involved in the non-ceremony so the only videos that might exist would have been shot by a handful of other tourists who happened to stumble upon our spectacular non-ceremony.
As it turned out, our non-ceremony at Moray was supercharged – everybody seemed totally focused and energized as we performed our synchronized “stretching” exercises. It would have been a magnificent sight to record on video, but every one of us was involved in the non-ceremony so the only videos that might exist would have been shot by a handful of other tourists who happened to stumble upon our spectacular non-ceremony.
My first impression of the huge terraced
pits was that this area was where an enormous spaceship landed - the circular
depressions indicating where its landing gear impacted the earth. Perhaps many
centuries later, the Incas had the bright idea to smooth out the terraces for
agricultural experiments.
Rainbow seen from the Aranwa resort (Emanáku Ku) |
In Peru it’s impossible not to have UFOs on your mind. The Andean peaks visible in almost every direction and the elevation make you acutely aware of the firmament. I did keep an eye on the night skies while we were preparing for the Activation – but nothing unusual happened, apart from a vivid rainbow appearing over the Sacred Valley one evening; and then around the midday Sun for two consecutive days, interspersed with a brilliant halo around the Moon on the night of the Activation ceremony.
There were countless
poignant moments throughout the 25-hour ceremony but the moment that remains
indelibly imprinted in my soul occurred just as we completed the final Starry
Processional dance. Many of us felt torn between joy and sorrow. Joyful,
knowing we had kept our promise and performed a very special service to our
beloved planet the full significance of which will not be understood for perhaps
another couple of generations.
Sorrowful, because the beautiful 11:11 family we
had bonded with for more than a week would soon disperse, and there was every
possibility we might never again see the others – at least not on this planet
or in our human bodies.
Anyway, on the second day of the ceremony, a few
village kids had wandered into the Activation site and were observed trying to imitate
our mudras. A couple of them even stood in as Guardians for a while, just for
fun. Among them was a girl of perhaps 10 or 11 and I found out her name was
Libertado – which means “liberated” in English. Omashar performed a
haunting song to close the ceremony and as he
played the final chord we were surprised to hear the voice of Libertado wafting a capella over
the speakers – a pure angelic voice singing praises to Pachamama in Spanish –
and I bet there wasn’t a single dry eye among us. It was unmistakably the Voice
of the New Aeon.
After that we
collected our stuff and made our way to where mini-buses were waiting to take
us back to the hotel. Halfway along the path I paused to light a cigarette and decided
to take another look at the beautiful sight of the radiant Sun in the West and
a luminous crescent Moon in the East.
In Peru, the symbol of the Sun and Moon
uniting as one is the equivalent of the Chinese Yang and Yin. And that,
according to Solara, is what the frequency of AN represents – the reunification
of all polarities – the male and female merged in dynamic balance.
As I gazed
at the Moon, a brilliant moving light suddenly appeared right next to her in
the afternoon sky. Could it be a plane? Just as I asked the question, the light
paused, then reversed direction, before doing an elegant jig and vanishing
behind the nearest cloud. Only three people in my immediate vicinity spotted
this mysterious light. It was the perfect vision to take away from the ceremony. I felt a powerful surge of optimism and reassurance.
On the previous day
Solara had spotted a condor flying over the Activation site. Apparently,
condors have rarely been seen in the area for years, even decades. She was
greatly cheered because the condor represents the Spirit of the Andes, just as
the eagle represents the Spirit of the Rockies in North America. I missed seeing the
condor but felt amply rewarded spotting the Light Ship. It was an unmistakable
sighting – I’ve had quite a few over the years – and these glimpses of other
dimensions interpenetrating with our own are immensely fortifying.
Most certainly part of what Solara calls the Ultra Greater Reality.
Most certainly part of what Solara calls the Ultra Greater Reality.